RIAD LIVING
An introduction to riads
If you travel to Morocco on a regular basis, you may already be familiar with the Riad. If not, they are a fantastic part of Almoravid dynasty’s history and an absolutely stunning piece of architecture that has to be seen to be believed! Join me as I take a look at the riads, what is so incredibly unique about them and what is being done to protect their legacy.
What is a Riad?
A riad (sometimes referred to as a riyad, riyadh or ryad) is a traditional Moroccan home with a garden or courtyard in the middle. They offer peace, calm and tranquillity in a busy and crowded city. This traditional Moroccan house is built around the courtyard, with four separate buildings surrounding it. This means that the garden or courtyard usually is entirely open to the elements.
Anita in Fes, Morocco @anniestravelist
History of the Riad
The word Riad, ریاض comes from the Arabic word for garden.
The first riads appeared in Morocco in the 8th century. The Roman empire previously occupied Volubilis in north Morocco, and the riad takes a lot of its design from the design of a Greco-Roman villa, in that the interior courtyard is the focal point.
At the same time the Berber dynasty (Al-Murābiṭūn) conquered Spain, meaning that a lot of Spanish artisans travelled to Morocco. This inspired the design of the riads even further and gave them a Mediterranean flair, especially when it came to the garden and courtyard.
In fact, you can find several riads in Spain even to this day!
In the past, riads were the homes of the wealthiest citizens of Morocco, such as merchants and royal advisers. They would house several generations of the same family, so they had to provide a lot of accommodation in a small space. This is why many riads consist of multiple storeys.
The architectural details that make the Riad
Riads can be found across the old walled centres (‘Medinas) of Morocco, from Marrakech through to Fez.
Although all riads are genuinely unique, they all share a couple of similar elements. Join me as I take a look at what these are.
The design: A riad is defined by its design. The building is divided into four equal parts with a courtyard in the centre. While the buildings are enclosed, the courtyard is left open, although a handful of more modern riads are enclosed by glass to protect against rain and sudden cold snaps.
The entrance: The riad is entered by a wooden door. This links the entrance to the Riad by a long corridor. As the doors are very elaborate but subtle, they can be hard to find from the busy narrow street.
The courtyard: All courtyards in riads are different, but as the courtyard is the focal point of the Riad, the one thing that they all have in common is that they are absolutely stunning!
What is in the courtyard varies from Riad to Riad. Some have fountains, while others have lush plants, herbs and palm trees. Fountains (or sahrîdj) represent life force and paradise. They are frequently seen in the centre of the courtyard, helping to cool the courtyard and the buildings within the Riad.
Fruit trees like lemon and orange trees are popular choices as well, making the courtyard smell as gorgeous as it looks!
This Moroccan architecture that have been converted into hotels may have swimming pools, plunge pools or al fresco dining areas in place of a courtyard.
Sometimes there are steps to the courtyard, and sometimes the entrance is flat. If there are steps, the chances are that the riad was built before the 18th century, as the steps did not have to take modern plumbing into consideration.
The windows:
The buildings are inwardly focused towards the courtyard, with no windows on the outside walls.
As riads have been constructed in busy areas, this provides privacy and stops people from peering in. This means that all the windows are focused towards the courtyard, providing an absolutely fantastic view!
As there are no windows, this also means that riads can be built adjoining each other, meaning that in the past, more could be built across a small and narrow space.
Riads that are multiple storeys high may have small windows facing outwards on the top floors.
The windows in riads, as well as the windows or gates, are arch- shaped. In the past, this shape was seen as auspicious as it protected the residents against the evil eye and brought good luck.
A lack of windows also gives protection against the hot midday sun and sandy winds. It also allows cool air to circulate through the house.
The floors:
Floors are usually tiled, often in intricate decorations and bright colours. Tiles are great to use as they do not retain heat, helping to cool the riad down.
The walls:
To be authentic, walls should be made of mud bricks or rammed earth. Some modern riad walls are made of concrete, but this practice should be avoided when renovating.
The walls are finished with a colorful waterproof plaster called ‘Tadelakt’, stucco or ‘Zellige’ (handcrafted and painted tiles). The walls are extremely thick, in order to block the scorching heat and keep the building cool.
These wall finishings can be extremely ornate, adorned with quotes from the Quran, elaborate calligraphy, geometric shapes or flowers. These finishings are completed by local skilled artisans. Representations of people are not seen, as Islam forbids living people being shown in artwork.
The size of the building:
The size of the house can vary, with riads being anything from one to four storeys high. The upper floors often have balconies that overlook the courtyard, as well as a terrace for entertaining and relaxing.
If riads are on a single floor, it is likely this is because of rules in place. In the past, if riads were near a monument like a palace or Mosque, they weren’t allowed to be over a certain height!
An element of privacy:
The individual buildings, with their high walls and lack of windows historically gave a large amount of privacy, especially for women and children. Women could work, carry out chores and relax with friends without eyes being on them.
As the riad was split into four, some of the buildings were for family only, while other buildings were designed for receiving guests (often known as a ‘Setwan’).
Why are riads so popular?
Riads have seen a surge in popularity over the past few decades. When Morocco was under French Protectorate between 1912 and 1956, they focused more of their energy on building up the modern cities like Casablanca, leaving the old towns and the riads to ruin. In the 1960s and 1970s, riads were popular with rock stars, fashion designers and young rich people who would go to Morocco to ‘discover themselves’.
From the 1980s onwards, foreigners from all around the world (particularly Europeans and Americans) started to buy the old riads and restore them, either as homes for themselves or private enterprises like hotels and restaurants.
Traditional methods have been used where possible when restoring the riads, reviving the older artisan trades and bringing new employment to Moroccan towns.
Renovation is a challenging process. As the roads outside the riads are so narrow, the rubble has to be taken out by a donkey!
Sometimes buyers have found gold, silver or even human remains in the walls.
Protecting the riads
Although it is excellent news that old riads are being restored to their former glory and are bringing a new lease of life to the old cities, this has come at a cost.
Many foreign and Moroccan investors are buying old riads and renovating them into luxury boutique hotels, or as homes for their families. This is especially true in Marrakech. As an example, there are over 1,500 riads there that are now guest houses, and new ones are popping up every week.
As a consequence of this, the word riad has come to be synonymous with the word hotel in the western world.
Although this is good for the economy and allows tourists to experience the beautiful riads in Morocco, it means that locals are no longer able to live in the riads. They are either having to sell the riads that their families have lived in for centuries to investors, or are no longer able to purchase them as the prices have been driven up so much.
However, action is being taken to protect the riads and those who call them home. For example, in the imperial city of Fes the authorities have set up a cooperative to help families that have fallen on tough times so that they don’t have to sell their riads.
In conclusion
I hope this guide has given you a good insight into the wonderful and secretive world of riads, and their rich history.
One of One Travel can help. Next time you are in Morocco and you walk past an intricately carved wooden door in the street, you now know a lot more about what exquisite things may lie behind that door!
